Hello everyone. Let’s talk about something that might be more “controversial”. We will discuss grading. The controversial bit is that every grade means different things to different people. To avoid lengthy arguments, we put together this handy guide for you. If you keep to these, you can be sure that we will take your side in disputes. (We highly recommend trying to discuss things between the two parties before raising a claim; we do believe that communication is the key to conducting business).
Correct card grading is essential, as each grade changes the value and the desirability of the card, sometimes quite drastically. This might even affect the cards tournament’s legal state, such as, if a card is too bent/damaged that even in a sleeve it can be noticed, a judge might declare them marked.
So be sure to take the extra time and check your items thoroughly. This includes the back side as well, not just the front. In card grading, you should always mark the card as the lowest grade of the individual side. For example, a card with a “Near Mint” front and a “Light Played” back will be technically a “Light Played” card. However, in the case of high-value cards (especially older ones), you can make a note on your listing which states the front and back side differences.
Another option is to take a close-up picture or a high-resolution scan of these cards. A good picture says more than any word.
When we talk about grading conditions, we speak about the number of quality defects and their severity compared to their originally intended form. This is important to note because a card might be pack-fresh (opened from a sealed booster 1 second ago), but it might have some issues with it. Sad as it is, please keep that in mind.
As for grades, we at Very Friendly Sharks like to keep things simple, so we use the following 5 grades.
Near Mint - NM is the highest grade we will use on our website (as Mint cards (graded 10) are extremely rare).
This grade allows for minor deviations from perfection, but the card generally looks nearly unplayed, without any significant defects.
- NM cards might show some signs of use from shuffling or handling but have an almost unmarked surface, nice corners, and mostly unchanged edges.
- The card has some slight edge wear, maybe even a small scratch, but overall looks almost perfect.
This grade allows for minor deviations as mentioned above, but they are noticeable, although few. Still no significant deviations at this grade.
- LP cards have a border or corner wear, with maybe some scuffs and some light scratches.
- The card has no grime, bends, or other structural deviation.
This Grade allows for different deviations and noticeable defects in small areas. Still no significant deviations.
- MP cards may have border wear, corner wear, scratching or scuffing, creases or whitening or any combination of these flaws.
- The card may have some shape deviation impacting a small area of the card from mishandling or poor storage that doesn't affect the card’s structural integrity.
This Grade is where the number of deviations affects the card's overall look. Significant Deviations make the card easily recognisable without a sleeve, making them tournament-legal only in sleeves.
- The number of deviations is multiple and might affect the structure of the card as well.
- Bends, creases and discolouring are also present in multiple places or large areas on the card.
Damaged cards are what the name suggests. They look like they have been through a war and have the scars to prove it. This grade shows major deviations that might impact the tournament's Legality of these cards.
- DMG cards show wear or deviations beyond the standards for other conditions.
- DMG condition may have major border wear, corner wear, scratching or scuffing, as well as folds, creases, tears or other damage that impacts the structural integrity of the card.
Let’s see some examples of what certain deviations can include but are not limited to:
- Bending: A card is bent if the structure of the paper has been damaged due to excessive bending. This is not just a regular curl like the one foils tend to produce (which is allowed if it’s only a few millimetres).
Any bend sets a card’s condition to Heavy played at least.
- Clouding: A card looks slightly dull in certain areas, most notably on foil cards. This is due to microscopic damage on the surface, but it might add up with time.
Any clouding sets a card’s condition to Lightly played at least.
- Inking: A card has been tampered with to upgrade its condition. Ironically, this has the opposite effect. This also includes marking a card with a pen or Sharpie. Unless the Cards artist or Richard Garfield does this.
Any inking sets a card’s conditions to Heavy played at least.
- Stamps: A Tournament organiser stamped a card in high-level limited events to avoid potential cheating.
Any stamps set a card’s condition to Heavy played at least.
- Alterations: A card’s artwork has been changed with the artistic intention to personalise it. These cards must be listed with a scan or picture. (We maintain the right to remove any listing deemed inappropriate artwork as per our community guidelines).
- Scratchings: A card’s surface has markings; this can vary in severity depending on the source. This is easily notable on foil cards due to the glossy finish.
- Water Damage: Damage caused by water exposure (like the classic left in the bag/pocket before washing) or excess humidity. Makes the card visibly wavy and cannot be restored
Any water damage sets a card’s condition to Damaged.
If you feel we omitted something important, let us know on our discord or via our help form here. If you have any doubt about a card you are about to buy, you can always ask the community: we are here to help!
